Friday, May 23, 2014

Tennessee Valley Beach - Marin Headlands, Golden Gate National Recreation Area



Marin County has some of the most beautiful coastline in California.  The North Pacific Ocean pounds and cuts into continental plates everywhere along the coast, but Southern Marin showcases the sea with unparalleled vistas.  This stretch of shoreline is almost entirely park lands.  The Marin Headlands in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area is foremost among the ocean parks: it is the first one encountered heading out of San Francisco across the Golden Gate.

Tennessee Valley Beach is unique in it's simple charm and is accessible by hiking 1.7 miles of gently sloping trail.   Biking is allowed, and horseback riding too.


Traveling to the sea in the morning hours between breakfast and lunch are the assorted  mothers pushing cross-country strollers, joggers listening to their headphones, hikers, and seniors walking their moss off.  And, meandering alongside the trail, a small creek also makes its way to the sea while irrigating flora and watering the wilderness, such as


 white feather flowers in radial bunches with white petals more radiant than nursery greenhouse flowers


Bridging civilization and wilderness Tamalpais Valley is linked to the Marin County Headlands and the Pacific Ocean.
Giant Eucalyptus trees in small clusters tower over the path perfuming the air with menthol, rustling in the wind, and whispering secret songs. Pristine meadows make perfect homes for coastal wildlife.


Deer make their beds in the woods along the creek and in the valley.  On a lucky day Coyotes and Bobcats may be seen sneaking off, glancing furtively; Red-tail Hawks soaring overhead 


Wild turkey toms sometimes saunter past, strolling;  occasionally one struts his stuff impressing his hen while last year's brood looks on disinterestedly like bored teenagers watching their parents carry on... Still, Tom shows off, puffing up and ruffling feathers into beautiful larger-than-life displays.

 

Crows frequently stake their territory; now and then a sentinel may be seen surveying his domain as he mounts guard on rocky outcrops.

When the marine fog burns off mid morning it lifts in a swirl of white, revealing bluffs and foliage glistening moist.


The Fog Lifts

Rounded hills lining up the valley roll up steeply, though gently, and some mornings the moon may be seen sliding past the undulating horizon as it returns to sleep on the West. Springtime brings out the California Buttercup; insignificant alone, together inundating entire fields in brilliant yellow.


Seagoing Trail

Two miles from the parking lot is the beach.  Not a white-sand beach resplendent in perennial sun, rather a rugged red-pebble beach usually drenched in fog and mist. 


Despite being relatively unknown, quite a few people use this beach.  Those in the know and within easy access make full use of it: some even commemorating lost love with gestures like casting a rose to the sea.


The path reaches the beach to the Southwest transitioning from fertile valley to a crescent saline sand adjacent the surf.


Arriving at the beach, the creek is by this time more like a fresh water stream emptying itself first into a small lagoon some two hundred yards inland, then into the sea. A micro ecosystem thrives in these brackish waters and Great Blue Herons are a great attraction when seen  flying off with a belly full of crab.


The rounded hills on the North march right into the water, shedding their soil at the shore, naked, revealing a massive solid core.  Incessant surf has barely brought down the stony intruder; yet together with rain and wind, the ocean is carving out the rock's weakness, highlighting it's strengths.




The rock outcropping extending into the sea is a weather-worn wonder, a water-etched sculpture changing color with time, going from dull mat red in the morning to shiny onyx black in the evening mist.  And it had an eye.  Some improbable natural process carved a large elliptical opening smack in the upper middle of the giant boulder through to the sky beyond and when the sun set before the fog rolled in, the oculus channeled sun rays into a long beam, casting it on the darkening sand like a wayward lighthouse beacon.


The coastline is moody and myriad scenarios play out year round.  No two days are alike; neither sand nor surf remain the same. Nor, the rocks themselves. The light and the temperature shifts. Sounds range from a deafening roar to soothing rhythms with waves dancing in response to howling winds or whispering breezes and forlorn seagull cries.

Evening Sun-rays - Alabaster Bridal Lace

Evening sun-rays shine on the horizon as waves crash and surf spreads white foam on black sand like alabaster bridal lace on the obsidian altar of the Divine.

Sunrise, mid-day, or sunset on the Pacific is a reason to enjoy the freedom of the eternal now, forever present.


Regrettably, on January 9th, 2013 the oculus/arch ceased to exist.  It collapsed and was captured on camera, crashing down, by geologist Roger Willis who happened to by hiking there at the time.  The following is a video of the crash:  http://landing.newsinc.com/shared/video.html?freewheel=91055&sitesection=ktxl&VID=24197449




Today, a testament to the ever changing world around us, the beach endures. Different, diminished, yet on clear winter days gentle waves roll into white surf, beautiful nevertheless....





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