Tennessee Valley Beach - Marin Headlands, Golden Gate National Recreation Area

Tennessee Valley Lagoon and Beach

Marin County has some of the most beautiful coastline in California.  The North Pacific Ocean pounds and cuts into continental plates everywhere along the coast, but Southern Marin showcases the sea with unparalleled vistas.  This stretch of shoreline is almost entirely park lands.  The Marin Headlands in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area is foremost among the ocean parks: it is the first one encountered heading out of San Francisco across the Golden Gate.

Tennessee Valley Beach is unique in it's simple charm and is accessible by hiking 1.7 miles of gently sloping trail.   Biking is allowed, and horseback riding too.

Equestrian Surf

Traveling to the sea in the morning hours between breakfast and lunch are the assorted  mothers pushing cross-country strollers, joggers listening to their headphones, hikers, and seniors walking their moss off.  And, meandering alongside the trail, a small creek also makes its way to the sea while irrigating flora and watering the wilderness, such as

 white feather flowers in radial bunches with white petals more radiant than nursery greenhouse flowers

Headlands Bridge

Bridging civilization and wilderness Tamalpais Valley is linked to the Marin County Headlands and the Pacific Ocean.

Giant Eucalyptus trees in small clusters tower over the path perfuming the air with menthol, rustling in the wind, and whispering secret songs. Pristine meadows make perfect homes for coastal wildlife.

Headlands Valley

Deer make their beds in the woods along the creek and in the valley.  On a lucky day Coyotes and Bobcats may be seen sneaking off, glancing furtively; Red-tail Hawks soaring overhead 

Turkey Stroll

Wild turkey toms sometimes saunter past, strolling;  occasionally one struts his stuff impressing his hen while last year's brood looks on disinterestedly like bored teenagers watching their parents carry on... Still, Tom shows off, puffing up and ruffling feathers into beautiful larger-than-life displays.

 

Black Crow Sentinel

Crows frequently stake their territory; now and then a sentinel may be seen surveying his domain as he mounts guard on rocky outcrops.

When the marine fog burns off mid morning it lifts in a swirl of white, revealing bluffs and foliage glistening moist.

The Fog Lifts

Rounded hills lining up the valley roll up steeply, though gently, and some mornings the moon may be seen sliding past the undulating horizon as it returns to sleep on the West. Springtime brings out the California Buttercup; insignificant alone, together inundating entire fields in brilliant yellow.

Seagoing Trail

Two miles from the parking lot is the beach.  Not a white-sand beach resplendent in perennial sun, rather a rugged red-pebble beach usually drenched in fog and mist. 

Fresh Water Stream

Despite being relatively unknown, quite a few people use this beach.  Those in the know and within easy access make full use of it: some even commemorating lost love with gestures like casting a rose to the sea.

Red Rose for Tennessee Valley Beach

The path reaches the beach to the Southwest transitioning from fertile valley to a crescent saline sand adjacent the surf.

Blue Heron Flight

Arriving at the beach, the creek is by this time more like a fresh water stream emptying itself first into a small lagoon some two hundred yards inland, then into the sea. A micro ecosystem thrives in these brackish waters and Great Blue Herons are a great attraction when seen  flying off with a belly full of crab.

Moon Over Tennessee Valley Beach

The rounded hills on the North march right into the water, shedding their soil at the shore, naked, revealing a massive solid core.  Incessant surf has barely brought down the stony intruder; yet together with rain and wind, the ocean is carving out the rock's weakness, highlighting it's strengths.

Blue Sky Oculus

The rock outcropping extending into the sea is a weather-worn wonder, a water-etched sculpture changing color with time, going from dull mat red in the morning to shiny onyx black in the evening mist.  And it had an eye.  Some improbable natural process carved a large elliptical opening smack in the upper middle of the giant boulder through to the sky beyond and when the sun set before the fog rolled in, the oculus channeled sun rays into a long beam, casting it on the darkening sand like a wayward lighthouse beacon.

Sunbeam on Tennessee Valley Beach

The coastline is moody and myriad scenarios play out year round.  No two days are alike; neither sand nor surf remain the same. Nor, the rocks themselves. The light and the temperature shifts. Sounds range from a deafening roar to soothing rhythms with waves dancing in response to howling winds or whispering breezes and forlorn seagull cries.

Evening Sun-rays - Alabaster Bridal Lace

Evening sun-rays shine on the horizon as waves crash and surf spreads white foam on black sand like alabaster bridal lace on the obsidian altar of the Divine.

Sunrise, mid-day, or sunset on the Pacific is a reason to enjoy the freedom of the eternal now, forever present.

Sunset on the Pacific

Regrettably, on January 9th, 2013 the oculus/arch ceased to exist.  It collapsed and was captured on camera, crashing down, by geologist Roger Willis who happened to by hiking there at the time.  The following is a video of the crash:  http://landing.newsinc.com/shared/video.html?freewheel=91055&sitesection=ktxl&VID=24197449

Gentle Surf

Today, a testament to the ever changing world around us, the beach endures. Different, diminished, yet on clear winter days gentle waves roll into white surf, beautiful nevertheless....

Mount Tamalpais' Steep Ravine

Foggy San Francisco viewed from Mount Tamalpais

Hiking around Mount Tamalpais in Marin County, California is exhilarating. The slopes are sometimes challenging and the views are often vast; at times gentle paths reveal intimate sights. The experience suggests primal living, resetting self in relation to nature: mind and body synchronizing with flora and fauna.

Steep Ravine is a sheltered trail and may be approached from the coastline or the mountain top. Driving to the trailhead near the Ranger’s station above the redwood tree line opens up vistas to the Pacific Ocean on the West and San Francisco on the South.

San Francisco and Bay Bridge emerge from the fog

From the top of Mt. Tam the City often looks like an apparition emerging from the fog. When low clouds dissipate in the morning sun, the city wakes from white-laced dreams and "all that is solid, melts into air". To the East, Mount Diablo looms like a brother waving from afar.

Mount Diablo viewed from Mt. Tam

Inspired by the view hiking down into Steep Ravine becomes a journey of discovery. Leafy canopies and tall redwoods envelop the descent in a green and red cocoon. 

Redwood tree overhead

A creek makes its way down alongside the trail cascading into sheltered waterfalls as it tumbles to the Pacific not far from Stinson Beach; trail and creek dancing to the tune of rustling leaves, tinkling water, and rhythmic strides.  

Sheltered Waterfall

Small wooden bridges span shaded banks as thundering footsteps pounding the beat on ancient boards are suddenly muffled on loose dirt. Birds chirping highlight the score.

Redwood Forest Bridge

Of the many vignettes coming to life on this nature walk, the most pleasing are probably the cool mossy green waterfalls.  While not spectacular in a roaring way their charm lies in their non-threatening poise: some carving channels out of solid rock, while others cascade over a multitude of boulders hydrating vegetation into fertile growth.

Mossy Rock Watefall

Redwoods variously arranged, standing, or fallen together with rich foliage create a cozy homelike feeling.Throughout, there's a sense of balance, of harmony barely disturbed by man and wildflowers rejoice with floral freedom.

Matterhorn - Gornergrat, Switzerland Hike

Spectacular Switzerland! This alpine country in central Europe is stunningly beautiful. Sheer cliffs and deep gorges define the landscape while meticulous attention to detail define the character of its people and Swiss society. It's a clean and orderly place, a pleasure to enjoy.

Matterhorn

Among the many mountains that make up the Alps, majestic Matterhorn is a national landmark and an international icon. It is also known as Monte Cervino and Mont Cervin. Kudos to the Swiss for keeping it pristine while accessible. The secret to the area's unspoiled appearance is that cars are off limit for miles around. The best way to experience the peak's stark glory is to drive to Taesch from which only rail is available to the next town. The train from Taesch to Zermatt is modern but from Zermatt to the last stop in Gornergrat the train is vintage open air cogwheel rail.  All trains are electric, clean, and quiet.

Breakfast At Gornergrat

Once in Gornergrat the view, if not clouded over, is spellbinding. This is the final destination for most everyone. The vast majority board the train back to Zermat after enjoying the restaurant at the top of the world, or simply taking in the fantastic view.

Matterhorn Zen Duckies

At this elevation glaciers flow at their geological speed undisturbed by rumors of global warming while man-made duckies are erected and torn down at the relative speed of lightning. Like in a giant Japanese garden with sculptures witnessing the passage of time these zen duckies partake in the ebb and flow of the ages.

Alpine Cross

Wandering further afield away from this small outpost of civilization reveals a rugged, untamed terrain. The occasional sign of man seems like a futile imposition on a cold, foreign world. A lonely alpine cross, for example, looks more like a forlorn attempt than a symbol of redemption, its incongruous setting a surreal expression of humanity.

It's not an entirely hostile environment and in spite of the thin air and cold rock life has a foothold here, however precarious.

Alpine Flower

Yellow alpine flowers bloom impossibly out of the crushed granite.

Blue Flowers of Matterhorn

Blue flower accents punctuate the alpine landscape against exhilarating backdrops while snow blankets distant mountains with pure white clouds floating around in a piercing blue sky.

Matterhorn Ruin

Traces of failed attempts at domesticating this otherwise pristine environment crop up along the trail down to the next train station. On a fine day some may meander station to station ever mindful that the weather may change in an instant. Hiking is moderately hard and an abandoned stone structure, now partially standing in ruins, attests to a difficult land with one rock wall still holding a window into the alps.

Window Into the Alps

Those brave and optimistic souls who know the area venture to fish the few glacial lakes that pool along the way, if not for catching fish, then for experiencing a quiet, peaceful afternoon.

Fishing Lake Matterhorn

It is these lakes gracing monumental mountains with their soft reflection and reassurance of life that make hiking the Alps an inclusive, hospitable experience. The next train stop, though far, is a welcome bittersweet gateway from wilderness back to civilization.