Friday, July 25, 2014

Muir Woods National Monument

Gateway to the Redwoods
Clustered at the base of Mount Tamalpais, North of San Francisco, is a group of Coastal Redwoods known as the Muir Woods National Monument. Although close to the city of Mill Valley, it is a world apart. This forest makes up for its small area by reaching skyward to unbelievable heights.  Some trees boast incredible altitudes, the tallest of which is 280 feet tall. Most are 500 to 800 years old and the oldest is 1,200 years old.

Redwood Canopy
Getting to Muir Woods is as easy as crossing the Golden Gate from the South, or travelling down Highway 101 through Marin County from the North.  Parking near the entrance is limited but spillover spots along the road may be found. Admission costs $7.00 and once in, the first portion is wheelchair accessible. Boardwalks, and paved paths encourage a pleasant stroll.
The forest is magnificent with awe-inspiring canopies the way a cathedral vault is majestic, allowing ephemeral glimpses of half-perceived secrets.



Each tree is a monument to sheer size.  Some trees have massive knobby wood growths near the top, while others feature face-like burls on their trunks. 


Silent Scream

There are surprised looking faces seemingly frozen in silent scream. 


Native American Shaman

The spirit of a Native American shaman appears to possess one burl with a stoic visage. 


Redwood Knob

Still another burl may be a more abstract redwood knob glinting in the sun.


Splendid trees are found imperceptibly sipping from Redwood Creek, which winds down the slope collecting into small pools and spreading out into tiny arteries. A palpable life force extends from the stream to the trees, out their needles, and into the air; unmistakably flowing even on dryer days.



Redwoods group into natural groves, sometimes bunching together and bolstering each other on the long climb to the sun.  Their trunks form palisades for temporary shelters. Also, wild fires carve out massive redwood trunks, providing more substantial fauna protection.


Dappled sunlight filters it's way from above, highlighting over fifty shades of green: from verdant mosses to reddish olive to leafy emeralds.




Dead stumps give new life to moss and lichen which put on a mystic air in the shimmering light.



Dancing sun rays transform trees and ferns into a fairy forest.

Sylvan Bridge

Hiking further, taking the Ben Johnson trail over a sylvan bridge away from the visitor center and through the redwoods leads up to the Pantol ranger station high on Mount Tam. With the forest below and the rest of the mountain above comes the realization that parking at the station and hiking down could be an alternative option.

Gnarly Roots

Up, or down, the trail is not easy, but it is manageable - the gnarliest of roots are off to the side - and the exertion is full of nature's rewards.

Emerald Forest

Taking the Redwood Creek trail in the opposite direction away from the visitor center leads out of the emerald forest, through meadows and gentle foothills down to Muir Beach where the creek empties itself in the sand and joins the Pacific Ocean.





Friday, May 23, 2014

Tennessee Valley Beach - Marin Headlands, Golden Gate National Recreation Area



Marin County has some of the most beautiful coastline in California.  The North Pacific Ocean pounds and cuts into continental plates everywhere along the coast, but Southern Marin showcases the sea with unparalleled vistas.  This stretch of shoreline is almost entirely park lands.  The Marin Headlands in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area is foremost among the ocean parks: it is the first one encountered heading out of San Francisco across the Golden Gate.

Tennessee Valley Beach is unique in it's simple charm and is accessible by hiking 1.7 miles of gently sloping trail.   Biking is allowed, and horseback riding too.


Traveling to the sea in the morning hours between breakfast and lunch are the assorted  mothers pushing cross-country strollers, joggers listening to their headphones, hikers, and seniors walking their moss off.  And, meandering alongside the trail, a small creek also makes its way to the sea while irrigating flora and watering the wilderness, such as


 white feather flowers in radial bunches with white petals more radiant than nursery greenhouse flowers


Bridging civilization and wilderness Tamalpais Valley is linked to the Marin County Headlands and the Pacific Ocean.
Giant Eucalyptus trees in small clusters tower over the path perfuming the air with menthol, rustling in the wind, and whispering secret songs. Pristine meadows make perfect homes for coastal wildlife.


Deer make their beds in the woods along the creek and in the valley.  On a lucky day Coyotes and Bobcats may be seen sneaking off, glancing furtively; Red-tail Hawks soaring overhead 


Wild turkey toms sometimes saunter past, strolling;  occasionally one struts his stuff impressing his hen while last year's brood looks on disinterestedly like bored teenagers watching their parents carry on... Still, Tom shows off, puffing up and ruffling feathers into beautiful larger-than-life displays.

 

Crows frequently stake their territory; now and then a sentinel may be seen surveying his domain as he mounts guard on rocky outcrops.

When the marine fog burns off mid morning it lifts in a swirl of white, revealing bluffs and foliage glistening moist.


The Fog Lifts

Rounded hills lining up the valley roll up steeply, though gently, and some mornings the moon may be seen sliding past the undulating horizon as it returns to sleep on the West. Springtime brings out the California Buttercup; insignificant alone, together inundating entire fields in brilliant yellow.


Seagoing Trail

Two miles from the parking lot is the beach.  Not a white-sand beach resplendent in perennial sun, rather a rugged red-pebble beach usually drenched in fog and mist. 


Despite being relatively unknown, quite a few people use this beach.  Those in the know and within easy access make full use of it: some even commemorating lost love with gestures like casting a rose to the sea.


The path reaches the beach to the Southwest transitioning from fertile valley to a crescent saline sand adjacent the surf.


Arriving at the beach, the creek is by this time more like a fresh water stream emptying itself first into a small lagoon some two hundred yards inland, then into the sea. A micro ecosystem thrives in these brackish waters and Great Blue Herons are a great attraction when seen  flying off with a belly full of crab.


The rounded hills on the North march right into the water, shedding their soil at the shore, naked, revealing a massive solid core.  Incessant surf has barely brought down the stony intruder; yet together with rain and wind, the ocean is carving out the rock's weakness, highlighting it's strengths.




The rock outcropping extending into the sea is a weather-worn wonder, a water-etched sculpture changing color with time, going from dull mat red in the morning to shiny onyx black in the evening mist.  And it had an eye.  Some improbable natural process carved a large elliptical opening smack in the upper middle of the giant boulder through to the sky beyond and when the sun set before the fog rolled in, the oculus channeled sun rays into a long beam, casting it on the darkening sand like a wayward lighthouse beacon.


The coastline is moody and myriad scenarios play out year round.  No two days are alike; neither sand nor surf remain the same. Nor, the rocks themselves. The light and the temperature shifts. Sounds range from a deafening roar to soothing rhythms with waves dancing in response to howling winds or whispering breezes and forlorn seagull cries.

Evening Sun-rays - Alabaster Bridal Lace

Evening sun-rays shine on the horizon as waves crash and surf spreads white foam on black sand like alabaster bridal lace on the obsidian altar of the Divine.

Sunrise, mid-day, or sunset on the Pacific is a reason to enjoy the freedom of the eternal now, forever present.


Regrettably, on January 9th, 2013 the oculus/arch ceased to exist.  It collapsed and was captured on camera, crashing down, by geologist Roger Willis who happened to by hiking there at the time.  The following is a video of the crash:  http://landing.newsinc.com/shared/video.html?freewheel=91055&sitesection=ktxl&VID=24197449




Today, a testament to the ever changing world around us, the beach endures. Different, diminished, yet on clear winter days gentle waves roll into white surf, beautiful nevertheless....





Saturday, May 17, 2014

Mount Tamalpais' Steep Ravine



Hiking around Mount Tamalpais in Marin County, California is exhilarating. The slopes are sometimes challenging and the views are often vast; at times gentle paths reveal intimate sights. The experience suggests primal living, resetting self in relation to nature: mind and body synchronizing with flora and fauna.

Steep Ravine is a sheltered trail and may be approached from the coastline or the mountain top. Driving to the trailhead near the Ranger’s station above the redwood tree line opens up vistas to the Pacific Ocean on the West and San Francisco on the South.



From the top of Mt. Tam the City often looks like an apparition emerging from the fog. When low clouds dissipate in the morning sun, the city wakes from white-laced dreams and "all that is solid, melts into air". To the East, Mount Diablo looms like a brother waving from afar.



Inspired by the view hiking down into Steep Ravine becomes a journey of discovery. Leafy canopies and tall redwoods envelop the descent in a green and red cocoon. 


A creek makes its way down alongside the trail 
cascading into sheltered waterfalls as it tumbles to the Pacific not far from Stinson Beach; trail and creek dancing to the tune of rustling leaves, tinkling water, and rhythmic strides.  


Small wooden bridges span shaded banks as thundering footsteps pounding the beat on ancient boards are
suddenly muffled on loose dirt. Birds chirping highlight the score.


Of the many vignettes coming to life on this nature walk, the most pleasing are probably the cool mossy green waterfalls.  While not spectacular in a roaring way their charm lies in their non-threatening poise: some carving channels out of solid rock, while others cascade over a multitude of boulders hydrating vegetation into fertile growth.


Redwoods variously arranged, standing, or fallen together with rich foliage create a cozy homelike feeling.Throughout, there's a sense of balance, of harmony barely disturbed by man and wildflowers rejoice with floral freedom.